Sunshine in a bowl

Iloilo is one of those places I never thought I will ever explore on my own.  As I was uncovering little bits and pieces about Iloilo during my pre-travel research,  I envisioned myself doing two things –to pray at the beautiful churches including the UNESCO World Heritage Church Miag-Ao Church,  and to eat! 

Batchoy is a dish characterized by a  marvelous concoction of hot broth, noodles and slices of meat, liver and crushed pork cracklings originated in La Paz, Iloilo. Paired with pandesal or puto, batchoy is sunshine in a bowl during cold, rainy days. 

The noodle soup dish is said to have been originated in the late 1930’s by Federico Guillergan. And in his namesake, he established Deco’s Batchoy. Deco's is now a popular batchoy food chain all over the country and as of today, there is one branch in Metro Manila, found in Makati.

Apart from Deco's, there were also other accounts about a certain Teodorico Lapura who, popularized  batchoy via his namesake restaurant,  Ted’s Old Timer La Paz Batchoy which was established in 1940’s. Ted's has a lot of branches in the Metro - the one near my area is found in Cubao. 

When I was in Iloilo, I thought, what better way to end the competition between Ted's and Deco's than to try them both for myself?

So, first stop, Deco’s in Robinson’s Iloilo.

I was a bit letdown because I thought that Deco's might have scrimped my toppings BUT, I was wrong. The moment the broth touched my lips I knew I was in heaven. The broth has a full flavour, but the taste is clear, distinct, nuanced yet very simple. 

Second stop, Ted’s Old Timer in Diversion Road

Unlike my Deco's bowl, the one I had at Ted's Oldtimer in Diversion road is an all out production. A bowl complete with egg and many little bits of meat all over the place. One word ... Yum! 

I guess it is an endless battle to choose between the two popular batchoy restaurants and I won’t even attempt.  Although,  I am particularly haunted by Deco’s smooth, really flavourful broth, especially on a cold bed weather. Not even a trip to Ted’s Oldtimer in Alimall Cubao satisfied my craving for batchoy during one of those recent and frequent Quezon city rains.  

Today, the Ilonggo specialty is a dish not just native in Iloilo, but is now a popular soup well-loved by the entire country. It's one of those dishes that has crossed boundaries. Even local instant noodles have a variety after the bubbling broth. I am not an Ilongo native, but ever since I have tried Batchoy in Iloilo, I am now an instant fan.

Batchoy can surely pump anyone up on a lethargic rainy day. And despite its lethal combination of pork, cracklings, beef, chicken and liver, I know I will always crave for this happy soup. It’s both life and death in a bowl and I would savor every spoonful.

This is my entry to the Pinoy Travel Bloggers’ Blog Carnival for July 2011 with the theme: "Awesome Food Experiences While Traveling in the Philippines" hosted by Anton Diaz .

The most romantic place is the place where I’ve moved on

To say “I love You”, one must be able to say “I”  - Ayn Rand

I was by the window seat on the plane. Watching the pavement move quickly until it only becomes a little gray blur in the background. Nothing new with traveling on a plane. But that day was different. I was alone.

Through glassy eyes, I saw outlines of cities and towns down below. And then after an hour, there it was. They say it’s the heart of the Philippines. Little did I know that this place will be that place where I can wander about freely, carelessly like a little girl lost in a park. Like nothing hurts as much. A place where nothing is impossible. Now that I look back, I knew that that place - that place where I can breathe and recuperate - it’ll always be Iloilo to me.

People fall in love for so many reasons and these are reasons which cannot be explained.

People fall in love for the first time.  And that first one - it’ll always be memorable. The first cut is deepest, said some tearjerker song. People might think traveling alone was unusual, and might even be whimsical.  But both can make you feel excited, out of your wits or just plain happy and content.  The first travel on my own felt similarly. Deep, exhilarating . And just like being in love I lost a lot of sleep just thinking about it.

But love is a little more risqué. Logic is worthless as long as you are happy. As long as you wake up at night beside him. Or when you hear him say your name.
But unlike travel, some love affairs do not always end well.
After traveling, reminiscing every little milestone and beautiful landmarks or temples and churches you documented is heartwarming. Makes you feel excited to travel again. With love, all you have are wonderful memories that could bring a smile on your face if only it didn’t hurt too much.

After my plane ride, I went straight to the cheapest hotel in town. It was cheap yet efficient, one thing I can recommend - the Ong Bun pension house. I rode jeepneys and cabs. I went all out about town. Iloilo is a bustling city. A major city where business and commerce has been ingrained to the city’s history. And yet presently, business keeps growing every day. Vibrant, moving and active. People move on. People walk and pass by me as if telling me to take that step and move.

The next day in Iloilo, I did an Elizabeth Gilbert and ate, prayed love my way around town. Downing one too many of them cheap but oh-so-good oysters for fifty pesos a bucket, and eating authentic Inasals and  putting an end to Ted’s and Deco’s competition for the best batchoy in town (Deco’s for me).

I went to various churches. But the one that stood out, majestically around the bend is this church which stood out like a queen. Santo Tomas Villanueva, that church which is more commonly known as Miag-Ao church. My heart skipped a beat. It was like a vision.  So soft with its intricate carvings yet so tough with its impenetrable pillars. If I were with him I’ll show this.

Whether I say it straight out that I traveled here after a heartbreak or I should just let it subtly unfold feels immaterial to me now. He and I were over. Time to take that step forward to the unknown.

Ours is over. And traveling alone for the first time here in Iloilo, another love affair 

has begun.

This is an entry for the 4th Pinoy Travel Blogger’s blog carnival: The Most Romantic Place hosted by Aleah of Solitary Wanderer. 

Happy New Year!

It's been a great wonderful year for me in terms of travel milestones and professional life milestones but, since I am blogging here in my travel blog, let me talk about my travel experiences!

I know, I know I've been barely to a few local places in the country BUT! i truly cherish everyone of them because they have enriched me. Plus, that's exactly my plan - to somehow explore different places in the country which are not too touristy, so as to have the right to call these places my own. hahaha. Right.
Also, I traveled alone for the very first time this year! Iloilo and Guimaras will always be very special to me because of that!
I ain't a hardcore traveler yet but I am proud of visiting places which I traveled for the very first time - Marinduque, Iloilo, Guimaras, Ilocos Sur and Ilocos Norte!

You must be perfectly aware that my personal travel style is DIY. I have had chance passenger experiences in  Marinduque on a car ferry no less, rode the jeepney to beautiful churches in Iloilo. I've missed ferries, and even rode outrigger boats for the first time! But these experiences are so funny as they are stressful haha.

Second, I visit places with so many places of interest like churches, world famous heritage sites like what I saw and experienced in Ilocandia and Iloilo. I think I'm a history and culture nut like that.

Third, this year, I've completed my pilgrimage to the 4 UNESCO World Heritage Churches in the Philippines! San Agustin Church (Manila), Miag-Ao (Ilo-Ilo), Paoay (Ilocos Norte) and Sta. Maria (Ilocos Sur)! What a feat!

And lastly,  I've experienced the food no less!!! And I know I will always be on a hunt for local food whenever I touch down a new destination!  I always sample the local food, because to me, the best way to get to know the culture of the place is through the palate!

This year, I shall experience life more with more travel opportunities and adventures! Happy 2011 to all!!!

The Quintessential Church Pilgrimage of Iloilo

I have never seen beautiful churches strategically placed on every town ever in my whole life until I went to Iloilo.  So people might wonder what's so interesting with visiting churches unless it is Visita Iglesia? It is interesting because the churches are a testament to the very rich and flourishing history of Iloilo as a major city in the past. A queen city where the way of life is anchored in faith.  I tell you, never leave Iloilo without visiting the churches. A friend from Antique said that some churches are miraculous, so when you are troubled or in need of serious or mild introspection, going to Jaro and Miag-ao can be satisfactory for your soul. And it doesn't hurt that these churches are also satisfactory to the eye.While these churches are ancient and historical, nothing prepared me for their jaw dropping gorgeousness. They are so beautiful, they give you this warm fuzzy feeling inside...the kind that makes you want to cry. Or want to get hitched just so you can marry in one of these churches.

I stayed in downtown Iloilo and the guy from local coffeeshop called "Coffee Break"  told me to visit Molo church first as it is the nearest from where I was. A jeepney ride after and there it was. Gorgeous gothic church straight out of Britain or Scotland. Or whereever. It's so beautiful I didn't even dare to take a picture of myself or asked this man to take a picture of me in front of the church. They say it was also called the St Anne church, or a feminist church. Good start.

Next is the beautiful Jaro Cathedral. I went to buy bibingka and pasalubong in the original Biscocho Haus in Jaro and made a pitstop to the cathedral. This is another beauty straight out of some British town or a Harry Potter book.  Gorgeous. They say that if Molo church was feminine, this, the Jaro Cathedral is the masculine church.

Next I took a jeep to Oton Terminal to ride the jeepney or multicab going to San Joaquin. San Joaquin Church they say, is located in Antique (or near the border of Antique and Iloilo). The jeepney fare is cheap for only 45 pesos one way. I think there are vans available or you can hire a cab for your church tour but, I want to ride the jeepney instead. Along the way, you will be able to see the many town churches and plazas as these serve as landmarks of the city centers, so navigating through your DIY church tour is fairly easy.

 The road to San Joaquin was scenic especially nearing MiagAo and University of the Philippines Visayas. It's a seaside road and the view is breathtaking.

I first passed by the lovely yet melancholic Tigbauan Church which is Latin (Mexican) in style and structure. This was constructed as early as 1575! Frankly when I went there it looked kind of deserted, but that's where its charm is! It's straight out of an old movie and I was having my very own mental time travel while staring at it. 

Next is the Guimbal Church which is a sight to behold. It's made of sandstone and corals and was constructed as early as the 1700's. I liked the shape and dome of the church which made it regal, like a watchtower that protects the Guimbal town. What's amazing with the church is the huge plaza which reminded me of Rizal Park in Manila.

San Joaquin Church is a gorgeous structure, with a war sculpted on its surface. According to sources, it is unique because of the depiction of the Spanish victory over the Moorish pirates in the Battle of Tetuan. It is made of limestones. You have to ride the little pedicabs to get to the church though. San Joaquin church has been named unique and recognized by CNN and other sites. 

Next was the Magnificent MiagAo Church. Seeing it for the first time is like seeing a mirage. It stood there, gorgeously by the bend, and its orangey color moved me. It stood like a queen. It's so big, but not imposing. In the front, you'll see intricately carved artwork, it looks like an ornate desert pastry, it's that girly. But when you go to the side you'll see thick walls, which makes this delicate-looking church more like a fortress. It was architecturally categorized as Baroque in style. I learned later on that this is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the only one in Visayas. (one of the four Baroque Churches in the Philippines recognized by UNESCO)

True, Manila has some amazing churches but Iloilo seems to bellow: "Iloilo is so blessed by the Gods, they took up permanent residence. And why wouldn't they, if they have such magnificent houses?"  

Eat, Pray, Love in Iloilo and Guimaras

A canceled meeting, and heavy raining in Quezon City allowed me to take a minute to blog about the recent travel. I want to get down and dirty with the details of the trip soon, so this shall serve as an overview. While it's raining in the metro, my heart is somewhere else, and it's in sunny Iloilo.

But first things first, this was my very first solitary trip.For a change. I got there with a couple of friends, but we went on our ways so I was left alone for the rest of the trip. A new thing for me since I'm generally social, I want to talk to people mostly about my opinions or about my snide remarks about nothing in particular.  Another thing why solo travel is a big, big thing to me is because I am generally a lazy traveler.I had no strong feelings about getting to a particular destination, or eating a specific food. Being away was enough for me.

However that kind of traveler changed as years passed. And I discovered there are a lot of things to see, more than the usual destinations. Also, rest days and vacations are golden ,you need to plan ahead and make trips worth it.  I discovered too that I can stick to a budget and still have so much fun.  I traveled solo basically just to be in the destination, do what I want, whatever feels right. And it's not as snobbish or loner-sounding as it appears. Try it sometime. I was skeptical but yes, it is everything it was cracked up to be. It's good to zone out from time to time, talk to strangers, get to know new people and places.It's a liberating experience and frankly, could be an addiction.

Batchoy

50 pesos oyster

So why Iloilo? Well, I chose Iloilo because I wanted to eat a bucket full of oysters you can buy in Manila for about 300 pesos, but in Iloilo, costs only 50 pesos. I wanted to compare which batchoy is better, Ted's or Deco's. I wanted to have La Paz Batchoy in La Paz and have Pancit Molo in, well, Molo, both in Iloilo.

bas relief depicting war in San Joaquin Church

San Joaquin Church

Guimbal Church

I wanted to pray in the heritage churches from Molo Church, Jaro Cathedral, Guimbal to Miag-Ao and yes, the very far San Joaquin  church, the only "military-themed" church where a war is depicted on the surface. And I did that and more. I chose Ilo-ilo because it's a province but is essentially a city, what with two SM malls and a Robinson's mall within stone throws distance.

I went there so that when I really want to get away I could hop a boat to Guimaras and be alone with the sun, see and hold a pawikan for the very first time, island hop to white sand beaches and see the most arresting sunset in the world. To be lost in Guimaras but can still come back to Iloilo city when work stuff beckons and I need to use the internet. If you plan to go on a solo trip, IloIlo can be one of the best provinces to get lost into -  where you can eat, pray and love your local island culture and heritage, your loved ones and yourself more and more.