Showing posts with label beaches. Show all posts
Showing posts with label beaches. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 10, 2011

A Tale from a Half-Blooded Batanguena Coffee Addict




Ala eh!


This is the telling catchphrase everyone has associated with any Batangueno. I am a half-blooded Batanguena since my mother is hailed from such a rambunctious, full-blooded people of this province south of Luzon, where a simple “ungkutan”(get together) may result to such a boisterous shouting match, and the fun part is, no one is actually arguing.

Passionate may be the word that I can describe these Batanguenos. They are proud, gallant, arrogant and can come off strong.

I was born in Manila, but every summer vacation since I was a baby, Batangas has always been the place where I spend my vacation. Batangas is very near from Manila, and can easily be a destination for a quick vacation. Batangas also has glorious beaches found in the Nasugbu part or in San Juan. When you want to go diving, you can shack it up in Anilao. But when I was a child, I’ve gone beaching in Calaca where the waters are clean and crisp, and the sand is pure gray.  


When I was not beaching, I usually found myself in the rural sitio in Balete, Batangas City where my mother grew up. I remember how the sitio used to look like back when I was ten. Walking up the dirt road, my relatives’ houses will welcome you in the sitio starting with my Kakang Ayo’s house in the “kahanggan” (end part ). And a few walks further, in the middle, in the more forested part was where my Lolo's (the father of my mother) bungalow, can be found.


Along with the Indian mangoes, camias trees and kakawates, rows and rows of coffee trees lined up my Lolo’s backyard. I often tinkered with the ripe ones and helped my titas with roasting.  But what I loved best is when the coffee trees blossom. The sweet smell wafted in the air. And as a kid I pretended that these flowers were sampaguitas. I strung them into a lei and I pretended like I was a princess. 


I drank Batangueno coffee for the first time when I was about ten years old because of my Lolo who introduced me to it.  And yes, it was my lolo’s fault that I don’t think I can ever live without coffee, now that I’m a full-pledged adult. I especially liked kapeng barako.  My lolo had a habit of pouring the black gritty goodness on fluffy white rice. And that was my comfort food back then. Ahh. Simple joys.

this is what our coffee farm looked like years ago. I used to watch my Lolas dry the beans in the sun then afterwards they roast them. (this is a still from a local teleserye I wrote for-  coincidentally, the main protagonist worked as a coffee picker when she was a child)

Being the first granddaughter and the first apo technically, you can expect how my grandfather treated me – with fierce protection, with pride and sometimes with such a controlling fist. But with my Lolo, I’ve always felt invincible. I grew up a brat, with a sense of entitlement because I knew  that no matter what I did, I have an automatic ally in him, no questions asked.


It has been a long time now that my Lolo is not with us. And yes,  changes have been made in the rural barrio where I used to spend summers. I’ve seen the transformation in front of my eyes year after year -  some trees made way for more houses as my Titas and Titos get married and build homes for their families. Old houses were renovated. Farms were turned into manicured gardens, The coffee trees diminished in number, and some were replaced with Digitel telephone wires.
my brother and a younger cousin 


Whenever I visit other seaside areas of Batangas for a trip with friends I always find the Batangueno accent comforting.  Even with the shouting tone. (They don’t mean to sound so loud, they are, as I said, passionate).And whenever I go back to my barrio I always request for freshly ground Batangas coffee and smile.  

With its strong, offensive yet full-bodied and strangely comforting effect on me, I am always reminded of my Lolo.

some photos sourced from here and here




This is my entry for the 7th Blog Carnival of Pinoy Travel Bloggers with a theme of "Hometown" This month's blog carnival is hosted by fellow PTB Member Mhe-anne L. Ojeda . For more of the previous entries click here.

Wednesday, November 10, 2010

Eat, Pray, Love in Iloilo and Guimaras

A canceled meeting, and heavy raining in Quezon City allowed me to take a minute to blog about the recent travel. I want to get down and dirty with the details of the trip soon, so this shall serve as an overview. While it's raining in the metro, my heart is somewhere else, and it's in sunny Iloilo.

But first things first, this was my very first solitary trip.For a change. I got there with a couple of friends, but we went on our ways so I was left alone for the rest of the trip. A new thing for me since I'm generally social, I want to talk to people mostly about my opinions or about my snide remarks about nothing in particular.  Another thing why solo travel is a big, big thing to me is because I am generally a lazy traveler.I had no strong feelings about getting to a particular destination, or eating a specific food. Being away was enough for me.

However that kind of traveler changed as years passed. And I discovered there are a lot of things to see, more than the usual destinations. Also, rest days and vacations are golden ,you need to plan ahead and make trips worth it.  I discovered too that I can stick to a budget and still have so much fun.  I traveled solo basically just to be in the destination, do what I want, whatever feels right. And it's not as snobbish or loner-sounding as it appears. Try it sometime. I was skeptical but yes, it is everything it was cracked up to be. It's good to zone out from time to time, talk to strangers, get to know new people and places.It's a liberating experience and frankly, could be an addiction.
Batchoy
50 pesos oyster



So why Iloilo? Well, I chose Iloilo because I wanted to eat a bucket full of oysters you can buy in Manila for about 300 pesos, but in Iloilo, costs only 50 pesos. I wanted to compare which batchoy is better, Ted's or Deco's. I wanted to have La Paz Batchoy in La Paz and have Pancit Molo in, well, Molo, both in Iloilo.
bas relief depicting war in San Joaquin Church

San Joaquin Church


Guimbal Church

I wanted to pray in the heritage churches from Molo Church, Jaro Cathedral, Guimbal to Miag-Ao and yes, the very far San Joaquin  church, the only "military-themed" church where a war is depicted on the surface. And I did that and more. I chose Ilo-ilo because it's a province but is essentially a city, what with two SM malls and a Robinson's mall within stone throws distance.


I went there so that when I really want to get away I could hop a boat to Guimaras and be alone with the sun, see and hold a pawikan for the very first time, island hop to white sand beaches and see the most arresting sunset in the world. To be lost in Guimaras but can still come back to Iloilo city when work stuff beckons and I need to use the internet. If you plan to go on a solo trip, IloIlo can be one of the best provinces to get lost into -  where you can eat, pray and love your local island culture and heritage, your loved ones and yourself more and more.

Saturday, April 17, 2010

I fell in love in Marinduque

Tres Reyes Islands is a group of three islets named after the three kings – Melchor, Balthazar and Gaspar. Among the three, Gaspar is the largest and the only one inhabited. Gaspar was also the nearest to Katala Beach. We opted to go to Gaspar since we didn’t have the time to explore all three.


After a breakfast of scrambled eggs and noodles (it was a Good Friday, I vowed not to eat meat until Black Saturday) and another melon-banana shake, me and my friends are off to island-hop in Gaspar Islet!
Island hopping is as foreign a word to me as say, exploratory laparotomy. Whenever I go to the beach, I just like the idea or the vibe of the beach. Eating by the beach. Smoking or drinking by the beach. Wearing resort outfits. Hearing the waves. Sea breeze and I'm spent. I never participate in any island-hopping, or banana boat or flyfish or watersports. Maybe because I don't know how to swim? That I'd rather not get too close to the sea because I find it dangerous.
I remember a beach trip in Calaca Batangas, my college friends wanted to check out the island nearby for the caves and falls or something. But the trip did not push through because I didn't want to go. Hahaha. Spoiler. Nah, there wasn't any available boat at that time that's why. And boats, I never rode a small boat, an outrigger boat that carries up to seven people. I can ride ferries, but never boats. You can take me to any dark alley or haunted mansion up north or traverse a foreign city at night with my luggage but you can never make me ride boats.
So anyway. Imagine my brashness when I rode an outrigger boat for the first time in Tres Reyes Islands in Gasan district in Marinduque.
Indulge my emotions a bit. The boat ride from Katala Beach to Gaspar islet was one of the best, calming experience I ever had in my life. The sea was friendly, I didn’t feel seasick, the waves were very still. Maybe because there were only four of us on a boat? I don’t know. But me in the middle of the open sea? Wow. It was too much and too overwhelming for me in a very good way. Like I want to preserve the moment in a vacuum so it won't spoil. 

The boatman was expert. It's the romantic in me, the emo in me that at that time I was just in awe, speechless. All the paranoia was washed away. The experience felt exhilarating yet humbling and special. Mentally I am picturing myself from the top view, the camera craning all over me -that a small boat traversing the big sea towards an island is carrying me. Makes me feel so small, yet so brave. Like Thetis the nereid and other sea nymphs blessed my journey.

The sea was beginning to turn from blue to clear turquoise as in clear and clean...totally unspoiled, total beauty. I could just sigh with contentment and awe. Marvelous.
Sometimes I have to remind myself that there are 7, 107 islands in the country and every province has their own fine white clear beach. And this moment made me realize that this particular part of the country is just one of those islands and there are more to explore. Amazing.


We docked at Coral Beach which was already starting to get busy at that time. Coral Beach has amazingly clear waters but the sand are actually corals. There are cottages made of nipa, and some stores selling fruits, halo halo to softdrinks. The boat man told us that there were little coves at the back of the islet and that the water is better, and the sand whiter and finer. So we just opted to buy fruits, chips, coke, ice, smokes from Coral Beach to take with us to the little cove at the back of Gaspar islet.

Paradise. We had a good half-day of beach bumming, picture-taking, lounging and dipping. It was hot but we didn’t care. The water is clear and inviting and turquoise. Lovely. Totally marvelous, totally mine. I claim it. This islet is mine.




The ride back to Katala Beach was a blur to me because my mind and heart was already soaked in the beauty of the island. Marinduque is underrated. I wonder why. Some folks of other parts of town haven’t even been to Gaspar.


This is one the clearest, best beaches one can ever find. Marinduque is rich in marine life.
I highly recommend this place. It’s like discovering treasure. In fact I wanted to camp out there with the stars as my blanket and the sand as my pillow. I want to be among the fishermen who have this paradise-like cove to themselves as their meeting place to have lunch when they go hungry, and off to fish again. I wanted to be an island girl. I've always enjoyed the beach and the seas, but this time I fell in love. And baby, it was hard love.