Happy New Year!

It's been a great wonderful year for me in terms of travel milestones and professional life milestones but, since I am blogging here in my travel blog, let me talk about my travel experiences!

I know, I know I've been barely to a few local places in the country BUT! i truly cherish everyone of them because they have enriched me. Plus, that's exactly my plan - to somehow explore different places in the country which are not too touristy, so as to have the right to call these places my own. hahaha. Right.
Also, I traveled alone for the very first time this year! Iloilo and Guimaras will always be very special to me because of that!
I ain't a hardcore traveler yet but I am proud of visiting places which I traveled for the very first time - Marinduque, Iloilo, Guimaras, Ilocos Sur and Ilocos Norte!

You must be perfectly aware that my personal travel style is DIY. I have had chance passenger experiences in  Marinduque on a car ferry no less, rode the jeepney to beautiful churches in Iloilo. I've missed ferries, and even rode outrigger boats for the first time! But these experiences are so funny as they are stressful haha.

Second, I visit places with so many places of interest like churches, world famous heritage sites like what I saw and experienced in Ilocandia and Iloilo. I think I'm a history and culture nut like that.

Third, this year, I've completed my pilgrimage to the 4 UNESCO World Heritage Churches in the Philippines! San Agustin Church (Manila), Miag-Ao (Ilo-Ilo), Paoay (Ilocos Norte) and Sta. Maria (Ilocos Sur)! What a feat!

And lastly,  I've experienced the food no less!!! And I know I will always be on a hunt for local food whenever I touch down a new destination!  I always sample the local food, because to me, the best way to get to know the culture of the place is through the palate!

This year, I shall experience life more with more travel opportunities and adventures! Happy 2011 to all!!!

Marinduque is one of Asia's future tourist hotspots!

  Click HERE!!!

i had the pleasure of visiting Marinduque last April, and I saw, came and conquered and I am so proud that this little island is gaining recognition!

Of Beaches and Blackouts, Dogs and "Aswangs"

The romance with the city of Boac ended so soon, I was a little melancholy with having to part from Boac. The breakfast of caldereta and leche flan and coke at Kusina sa Plaza were definitely to die for, the Boac museum that housed artifacts of ship ruins, of Chinese plates and ceramics which proved the Philippines' participation to barter system so many years ago etc etc. When I was young I only read about this in some History book. Some random quiz item. One can only wonder why these things matter so much to some people. I realized now, because those facts gave this little remote island some pride.

And oh, the Beautiful Boac Cathedral...

sanctuary

There are a lot of realization at this time, but I have to find time to make a solid capsuled article on how Marinduque's people are its heart, and how it changed my thinking.

The ride to Torrijoswhere Poctoy White Beach is located was a scenic, relaxing one. The main road is winding and zig-zaggy, but no bother as the drivers are always very very careful and cautious  - they've mastered the art of driving on winding roads. One tip - the public transport in all of Marinduque are all on schedule so better ask around what time the jeepney going to a certain place leaves. In my experience, the last trip to Torrijos from Sta Cruz district is as early as four in the afternoon.

 

At Poctoy instead of going to Rendezvous Resort as recommended by the guidebook, I was lead to a private cove some distance from the White Beach. A private cove for only 700 pesos, or a little more than ten dollars!

Dinner was to be spent at the public part of Poctoy White Beach where there were cottages, and grilled food, little stores, booze and whatnot. The place is overflowing with people, most of them locals. There was even some "diskuhan" or dance, and videoke and the locals sure know how to groove. The star of the dance were she-males. It was fun to watch them, they know how to shake their booties and oh, such cam-whores!

The night wore on, and after some minor commotion the dance was abruptly put into a halt. It was time to go back to our private cove. But! Suddenly there was a blackout!

In the dark I got to talk to some locals. A nurse working in the UK who hailed from Marinduque, and a student studying in Manila who also hailed from Marinduque. See the thing with Marinduque, it is a victim of manpower exodus. Or whatever that means. The sons of sons of sons of locals study in universities in Manila, find work in Manila, live in Manila and only go home for vacations such as these, leaving Marinduque the bucolic town that it is. But what to do in an increasingly developing world? If you were a local who wants more employment opportunities? And you search for your own backyard only to find that there are none. Seriously. If you want to be an artist there is no room for anyone there. Or even a nurse? Could I blame them for leaving town? I am not to judge.

Marinduque may be near but the province could be as far as any remote place can be. Some province even further from Marinduque were even more developed, with reputable university systems. I don't know if I want to preserve Marinduque's simplicity, or improve its facilities. But there is always a need to develop, but a responsible development should be done.

My new friends had to leave so it was time for me to head back to the private cove. As I was walking dogs began to bark...and they are plenty!!! Even tried to head to a new path going to the cove but there are more dogs!!! A friendly local helped me and accompanied me back to the private cove. So much for being responsible.With no flashlights, or whatsoever. But I was thanking God that no accidents happened or that I was not bitten by stray dogs!

One thing I learned from this is to be medically-prepared while traveling, to protect oneself apart from just mosquito bite lotions or sunblocks. Especially when traversing unknown territories. Rabies shots, medicines, insurance. I am not invincible so I should travel responsibly.

Upon arriving at the private cove, the tenants (who are also visitors) beside our apartment told a very scary scary tale about seeing an aswang. Yes. That night. An aswang, surrounding our apartment. With footprints like humans, bigger than a dog, with sharp eyes. Ok,  I came from running for my life from dogs, I thought, what could be worse than that?

The tenant and his brother were actually holding a vigil, to protect the females and kids in their group. Oh my God. The guy said he's from Dipolog and he's had so many encounters with aswangs and mysticisms. He also said that Marinduque has its share of real life aswangs. That yes, though some tenants are from Tagalog regions but Marinduque being in the middle, people from Ilo-Ilo, Siquijor and other "scary" provinces also take refuge here.

I was panicking, scared...and it was a wonder that I did not cry. I thought, how unfair, it was my first local backpacking and yet I'm in danger of being eaten by an aswang already?

In the morning, surprise, the aswang that the neighbor is referring to is none other than...tada. a small cow. 

Lively, happy and giddy to explore after an aswang pseudo scare, it was time to bask in the sun and soak at the beach! The beach I was referring to was actually at the middle of the public White Beach and our private cove. The Beach stretches about a kilometer and the middle part is actually the cleanest and most refined. Pure work of nature. There were no resorts at the middle part. Only families with fishing boats. What a treat! The beach was clear and beautiful and well-maintained. The families by the beach respect nature and their resources.

Leaving Poctoy Beach was hard, really. I wanted to stay. Especially after the funny scare. Save for the dogs, this was a perfect location, perfect beach. But sadly, it was time to say goodbye. And I left with a heavy heart.

Close encounter with the Morions

After Tres Reyes Islands, it was time to head to Boac the capital city, to catch some Moriones festival activities, or if not just to see what's going on in the place. Though I highly doubt any activity since it was a Good Friday. Boac is lined by Spanish-style antique houses, small dainty streets, like a movie set.

Things were looking up in Boac, as restaurants like Cafe, Goodchow, Kusina sa Plaza and others were up and running and serving meals to throngs of people! 

Upon arriving in, we had to deal with finding a place to stay. The trike driver was very very helpful (seriously all the locals were friendly and trustworthy, except for some minor misbehaving ones). I stayed in Boac at Cely's Board and Lodging, which was pretty much a room just to leave your bags, but the condition might be better when you're alone.

Good Friday in Boac is the busiest ever! While the entire country is in retreat mode, Boac becomes the place to be. Boac men practicing the pugutan (beheading of Longinus - which is the highlight of Moriones Festival), travelers, and locals alike in restaurants. Ooooh. Starbucks there ain't but I had a decent caramel macchiato the morning after. Sizzling bangus, softdrinks plus some pineapple juice with magic sugar (I assume) the night before. What's interesting was the general populace seemed to be young and vibrant, in their twenties like me, and Boac is a youthful city during Holy Week. Sadly there was some issue on ice shortage. The island has some electricity issues that I'd rather not expound because it didn't matter to me anyway.

Strolling in the night led to discovering rows of ihaw-ihaw and paluto set up with booze, food and meat! Greaaaaat. After all the commune with the beach mode in Gaspar Islet, I get to relax drink beer and eat liempo after 12 midnight because it's Saturday already!Abstinence adios.

In the morning in Boac, the streets are teemed with the larger that life Morions! And they are everywhere! So I shoot em up like I'm a paparazzi, because the morions are the star!

Moriones means Roman centurion masks and the festival takes place in Marinduque during Holy Week and culminates in the re-enactment of the beheading of Longinus. Entire towns are converted into huge stages as the story of Longinus unfolds.

Participants wear colorful costumes (similar to those worn by Roman Legionaires) and masks made from paper mache and painted in lively colors. Other even dress up in the image of various other figures from the Bible.

One of the most colorful festivals celebrated in the island of Marinduque is the Moriones Festival. Moriones, on the other hand, refers to the masked and costumed penitents who march around the town for seven days searching for Longinus. This week-long celebration starts on Holy Monday and culminates on Easter Sunday when the story of Longinus is reenacted in pantomime. This is a folk-religious festival that re-enacts the story of Longinus, a Roman centurion who was blind in one eye. 

Legend has it that Longinus pierced the side of the crucified Christ. The blood that spurted forth touched his blind eye and fully restored his sight. This miracle converted Longinus to Christianity and earned the ire of his fellow centurions. The re-enactment reaches its climax when Longinus is caught and beheaded.

The festival is characterized by colorful Roman costumes, painted masks and helmets, and brightly-colored tunics. The towns of Boac, Gasan, Santa Cruz, Buenavista and Mogpog in the island of Marinduque become one gigantic stage.

(text lifted from this site  )

there they are! quick!

Going, going, gone.

I fell in love in Marinduque

Tres Reyes Islands is a group of three islets named after the three kings – Melchor, Balthazar and Gaspar. Among the three, Gaspar is the largest and the only one inhabited. Gaspar was also the nearest to Katala Beach. We opted to go to Gaspar since we didn’t have the time to explore all three.

After a breakfast of scrambled eggs and noodles (it was a Good Friday, I vowed not to eat meat until Black Saturday) and another melon-banana shake, me and my friends are off to island-hop in Gaspar Islet!

Island hopping is as foreign a word to me as say, exploratory laparotomy. Whenever I go to the beach, I just like the idea or the vibe of the beach. Eating by the beach. Smoking or drinking by the beach. Wearing resort outfits. Hearing the waves. Sea breeze and I'm spent. I never participate in any island-hopping, or banana boat or flyfish or watersports. Maybe because I don't know how to swim? That I'd rather not get too close to the sea because I find it dangerous.

I remember a beach trip in Calaca Batangas, my college friends wanted to check out the island nearby for the caves and falls or something. But the trip did not push through because I didn't want to go. Hahaha. Spoiler. Nah, there wasn't any available boat at that time that's why. And boats, I never rode a small boat, an outrigger boat that carries up to seven people. I can ride ferries, but never boats. You can take me to any dark alley or haunted mansion up north or traverse a foreign city at night with my luggage but you can never make me ride boats.

So anyway. Imagine my brashness when I rode an outrigger boat for the first time in Tres Reyes Islands in Gasan district in Marinduque.

Indulge my emotions a bit. The boat ride from Katala Beach to Gaspar islet was one of the best, calming experience I ever had in my life. The sea was friendly, I didn’t feel seasick, the waves were very still. Maybe because there were only four of us on a boat? I don’t know. But me in the middle of the open sea? Wow. It was too much and too overwhelming for me in a very good way. Like I want to preserve the moment in a vacuum so it won't spoil. 

The boatman was expert. It's the romantic in me, the emo in me that at that time I was just in awe, speechless. All the paranoia was washed away. The experience felt exhilarating yet humbling and special. Mentally I am picturing myself from the top view, the camera craning all over me -that a small boat traversing the big sea towards an island is carrying me. Makes me feel so small, yet so brave. Like Thetis the nereid and other sea nymphs blessed my journey.

The sea was beginning to turn from blue to clear turquoise as in clear and clean...totally unspoiled, total beauty. I could just sigh with contentment and awe. Marvelous.

Sometimes I have to remind myself that there are 7, 107 islands in the country and every province has their own fine white clear beach. And this moment made me realize that this particular part of the country is just one of those islands and there are more to explore. Amazing.

We docked at Coral Beach which was already starting to get busy at that time. Coral Beach has amazingly clear waters but the sand are actually corals. There are cottages made of nipa, and some stores selling fruits, halo halo to softdrinks. The boat man told us that there were little coves at the back of the islet and that the water is better, and the sand whiter and finer. So we just opted to buy fruits, chips, coke, ice, smokes from Coral Beach to take with us to the little cove at the back of Gaspar islet.

Paradise. We had a good half-day of beach bumming, picture-taking, lounging and dipping. It was hot but we didn’t care. The water is clear and inviting and turquoise. Lovely. Totally marvelous, totally mine. I claim it. This islet is mine.

The ride back to Katala Beach was a blur to me because my mind and heart was already soaked in the beauty of the island. Marinduque is underrated. I wonder why. Some folks of other parts of town haven’t even been to Gaspar.

This is one the clearest, best beaches one can ever find. Marinduque is rich in marine life.

I highly recommend this place. It’s like discovering treasure. In fact I wanted to camp out there with the stars as my blanket and the sand as my pillow. I want to be among the fishermen who have this paradise-like cove to themselves as their meeting place to have lunch when they go hungry, and off to fish again. I wanted to be an island girl. I've always enjoyed the beach and the seas, but this time I fell in love. And baby, it was hard love.

Marinduque: From Sta Cruz to Pinggan

After docking in Sta. Cruz port at around four in the afternoon, we rode the jeepney going to Gasan in Marinduque. There were other jeeps heading to Torrijos district but we were thinking of staying in either Boac or Gasan. It was about a two hour journey worth 150 pesos. Expensive, yes, but actually this was the most expensive jeepney fare we ever paid for in Marinduque. What's strange too is that same route going back to the port cost less, which is around 30-60 pesos.

Confession: This was my first DIY travel to an unfamiliar province with the purpose of exploring the island and not just to go to one beach resort to lounge for three days and that's it. This was backpacking local island style. Haha and that included spontaneous hunt for accommodations. Usually locally when I travel it will be among a group of friends in a group travel set-up where accommodations were set up, especially if it was a first time trip.

Originally what I wanted to catch was the Moriones Festival, or just basically to soak on festival vibe of the place. After all Marinduque is famous for the Moriones Festival. I just want to see a real life Morion. Haha. But also, I wanted to check out the islands and the beaches. 

Whenever I travel, I usually make it a point to visit the city, that's how I get to know the country or the place I am visiting. I am the chick from the metro. I was raised in Manila and my province in both Batangas City (mother side) and Vigan (father side) are both city centers of their respective provinces. So imagine my delight and surprise to actually wind up in this very remote island. My first impression...Marinduque is a very laid back island. Greeneries, lots of coconuts. The smell of coconuts from the kopra factories permeated the air from time to time. I saw this dried up river which I presume to be the contaminated river from the Marcoper Mining Accident. It ran parallel with the road. It gave Sta Cruz a bit of a sad vibe. Imagine crossing a bridge with no water on it but just dried up land with weird color.  Other than that the scenery was refreshing and very...remote. 

Marinduque is one of the provinces that are part of Luzon but can be considered as gateways to the Visayas – including Romblon and Masbate. It’s near Batangas and Lucena too, only four hours boatride away ( 2 hours for fast craft). But somehow, the province is left undeveloped…Maybe Marinduque is left somewhere in between. The language is a strange, mysterious mix of Batangueno Tagalog, with bits of Visayas and some Bicolano words. Some locals told me that Marinduque's people are a mix - Tagalogs, Bicolanos and Visayans in one weird mix. Despite the long travel, one will find peace and security because the people are very warm and accommodating like bad vibes are banned in the place.




Some helpful fellows inside the jeep told us to alight in the town of Gasan and ride a tricycle heading to Pinggan where beach resorts abound. These resorts shall serve as our drop off point towards the Tres Reyes Islands.
While on the jeep, we were already passing by the resorts recommended by Lonely Planet. But none of us flagged down the jeep. I don't know why. Maybe all of us were dead tired and hungry and were subconsciously waiting for someone to take the lead, hahah. But maybe well for me, I was still looking forward to where will the jeep take us. Finally the jeepney stopped, and there were only us on the jeep. We alighted at a small town where there was a church and a procession going on. When I say procession, I meant a small gathering of neighbors with candles singing some hymns. It was small. Guess who stood out. That was weird. We bought some hotdogs and bbq and rode another fifteen minute (worth 60 pesos) tricycle to Katala Beach, which was recommended by one of the townsfolk.

While inside the tricycle I passed by long stretch of beach itself peeking behind the trees and houses. And the people, they were either sitting by the window, fanning themselves, or having coffee. By the terrace. Sitting, lounging. Some people passed by carrying big sticks of skewered fresh fish (I believe this was tanguige) about to be grilled. We were in a fishing town. I was positively anticipating, plus the fact that we weren't able to sit down for a meal for the whole duration of the trip made me very tired like my body and mind were begging to rest! And with all the relaxing visuals I saw, the idea of communing with the beach was starting to excite me.

 (the fishes i saw was like this! i just took a photo of this at a local market recently hehe)

So we reached Katala Beach. The room we stayed was 1000 for a non-aircon room for a night, I find it cheap considering we will split it up for three people.

Katala Beach has a very open, serene, relaxing vibe. It does look like a romantic resort of some sort. Bamboo lounges, flags, cottages, couples sitting by the shore. The night already seeping in. The whole set up makes single girls to want to emote on exes. hahaha.

After a dinner of lapulapu fish, free drink and loopy conversations with a German expat named Klaus (more on this on later posts), we had two choices - either off to bed, or off to chill by the beach. I forced my buddies to chill by the beach. And damn, just hearing the waves and feeling the breeze was relaxing. And made me calmer. And more trusting of the sea that I couldn't wait for the trip to the Tres Reyes Islands in the morning.

After waking up, the seven in the morning sky made me see the rustic beauty of Katala beach. 
The sand are actually pebbles but the waters are very clear. I talked to the boatman that we would use the boat to head to Tres Reyes Islands. Here we go!

Marinduque: Taking Chances

Of all my previous travels, (which are not really too many), only Marinduque has managed to shake a total of five emotions in me - happiness, hate, fear, sadness, love. With all the sub-categories and grey areas. With all emotions bursting at the seams, the kind that can be life-changing, with a thousand and one lessons along the way. This series will highlight my travel learnings and fears conquered, starting with the travel going there. Oh yes, Marinduque changed my life!

Chill at the Bus

I was working on a deadline hours before the trip I hit send at 1:30 am which allowed me very few hours to pack my things. I arrived around 4:30 am at Jam Liner in Kamuning.

The bus left at about ten minutes to five in the morning. The assumed two hour ride turned five hours! What would one expect during Maundy Thursday? The fee is 227.50 for the trip to the port of Dalahican, past Lucena.

My first travel mistake while on the road was that I sat at the aisle seat. I was crushed by passengers that hopped from Laguna going to Lucena. Especially the old lady who staked a claim on my armrest. I was like, "Hey that's my armrest!". But the old lady actually sat down comfortably, pushing me further towards my friend Elaine. Crushing me, which in turn crushed Elaine who is very frail. OK this was a dilemma moment: Will I be bitchy and tell the old lady off? Or will I just make snide, suggestive movements like maybe squirming like a worm uncomfortably, looking at her direction contemptuously and hope for the best? I did the squirming thing and a little polite "Can you move a little...." And good thing she got it.

At Dalahican Port.

After five hours bus travel, we landed in Dalahican port in Lucena, Quezon. This was where the second turning point kicked in. The first one was the prelude to a dilemma, like a foreshadowing but this, this set the tone of the whole trip.

The night before the trip, I scavenged along the terminals in Edsa for an advanced booking of either bus or roro. If you plan to visit Marinduque during Holy Week, I advice you to plan way ahead of time.Book the roro months before as they get fully booked in a snap.

Why do I advice you to take the roro? It's because it assures you guaranteed seats. And you won't belong to the gazillion people falling in line for a chance (yes, chance) to ride the ferry to this little island.

I had no experience with the roro means of travel going here,  but some accounts have their own hell stories, like enduring twelve hours of waiting from the port just to get to Marinduque. The peak season, which is the Holy Week season apparently transforms the otherwise sleepy transportation system into mayhem.

At the port, we saw throngs of people in line. When asked, some people told me that tey were already at the queue as early as 3:00 am and were still standing there, still waiting for the ticket counters to open! And it was already 10 o clock in the morning. I just had to shake my head to that. Unbelievable.

The lines were cut off without you knowing it. We had Boac or Gasan as our first stop in our island backpacking trip, so we had to choose Balanacan port in Mogpog as our port of choice (according to Lonely Planet, two ports operate at the Dalahican Port the Sta Cruz port and the Balanacan port, it was only when we were in Marinduque already that we realized there were other ports - Buyabod and Cawit)

But seeing the situation, it doesn't matter anymore if we arrive in Balanacan or in Sta Cruz port - just as long as we arrive to Marinduque! Scarcity can somehow lead one with no choice. Beggars can't be choosers.

Later on the ticket booth to Balanacan port opened. I fell in line and so are the hundred and more so people who have been waiting there earlier than me. Some travelers can be brash, with attempts to cut the line. In fact I was so, so close to buying the tickets when the person manning the ticket counter decided that the ferry was already full and can only accommodate 20 more passengers. OK, hell broke lose. And I was driven further away from the ticket lady.

I was thisclose to abandoning Marinduque altogether. I was thinking of  just staying overnight in Lucena to, I don't know, sleep or eat or whatever I can do in Lucena. But like a mirage on a desert, a man on a blue shirt approached me and offered a ferry to Marinduque.  The man started carrying the luggage and was already walking ahead! Where was he leading me? If random blue-clad men were offering ferries to Marinduque, then why were all these people still in line?What? Why? Things went by fast and obviously this was not a moment to ponder and dilly-dally. Off I went!

Turned out...

He was leading me to a car ferry. Where properly ticketed passengers were on top of the ship, safe and snuggly in their air-conditioned chambers and comfortable cushioned seats. Whereas I sat down on a monoblock chair making friends with automobiles.

But the thing was, the weird thing was, throughout the journey, I didn't feel scared or uncomfortable at all. While I sat on a monoblock, other passengers had only last week's paper to sit on. The ride was four hours long but it was smooth.

The ride couldn't be more perfect, because I was more than happy and excited to reach Marinduque whatever it takes. And that took Courage? check. Determination? check. Sense of adventure? check. Because even if there was no insurance, or that the ticket cost about 250+. (the same amount if we got into the air-conditioned chamber). I jumped in without thinking of the consequences.

I hadn't landed in Marinduque yet but I was already starting to see and appreciate the good things, the happy chances and blessings rather than sulking and dwelling on the bad things. I was also able to conquer my being too safe and my fear of water. Good start. And that's just the tip of the iceberg.

HOW TO GET THERE

Jam Liner in Kamuning  - 227.50 one way bus bound to Lucena/Dalahican. Dalahican is the last stop of the bus. 

MV Torrijos car ferry - 250 one way to Sta Cruz port.

The Jac liner in Kamuning has roro service for P500. During peak season, the roro service is booked months before. So for passengers who don't have reservations for roro,  and those like us who will bravely get off from Dalahican in Lucena and undergo the challenge of getting tickets and actually boarding a ferry to Marinduque, prepare for  unmanageable crowds, very long queues and waiting hours. There's nothing to do but to keep your cool. Reserve the bitching and the useless comments on how inefficient the transport system is later on after you get to the destination. Be quick-witted.

Mobilize and Strategize. If there are two or more of you traveling, you and your buddies can fall in line on different booths, and pay for the others whoeever gets to the ticket lady first, to be able to save time and effort. That's what traveling with buddies are for. 

I should say that our experience of getting on the MV Torrijos car ferry was because of fate and a touch of luck. Because our ride was a safe, enjoyable one.