Showing posts with label Ilocos Sur. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ilocos Sur. Show all posts

Wednesday, August 24, 2011

Ode to Vigan

Villa Fernandina- this is what the Spaniards christened this beautiful and quaint city up north, the capital of Ilocos Sur.
An island gifted by a rich Spanish colonial past,  magical cobblestone streets,  ancestral homes and a UN World Heritage site (Heritage Village) - Vigan.




My father's parents are based in Vigan. He used to have this beautiful street as a playground.  But for a person who wants to find a greener pasture, my father in his teens, boarded a bus to Manila, studied in Manila, established his life there, met a Batanguena woman and got married in Manila.  And now, my family considers Manila as our home at present.

So yes, this trip was doubly special because it was a "coming home" of my father who hasn't been back to his hometown Vigan after a number of years. And personally, this is my coming home too since I've only been in Vigan thrice since I became an adult.

Enchanted Cobblestone Streets 
Stepping into the Vigan Heritage Village is an out of this world experience. The streets, albeit old and ancient, are full of people and alive.

In the morning, the whole street becomes a bazaar showcasing impressive Ilocano handiwork and craftsmanship in every product. Bags, handicrafts, souvenirs, can be seen here. To shoppers, there will be endless rows of goodies to be bought all in reasonable prices.

At night, the beautiful streets in the Heritage Village are illuminated by glowing lights from old-fashioned lamp posts and the soft light transforms the street into an even quainter, lovelier version of itself.




Vigan Foodtripping
For foodie travelers, Vigan is heaven! You can even create an itinerary for food tripping alone!  Yes commercial establishments like Mcdonald's and KFC abound, but along the gracefully aging streets you will find a native delicacy that you'd definitely like to sample or even take home!

Vigan Longganisa
A kind of longganisa (sausage) that has a yummy yet strong flavor, savory, sour and garlicky! The perfect breakfast meal would be Vigan longganisa, fried rice, egg and a cup of strong coffee! I brought home packs of these. And yes, this will always remind me of Vigan.




Vigan Bibingka
Compared to the "Simbang Gabi" bibingka (fluffy,soft and mild),  Vigan bibingka is more dense, and has a stickier texture. I think I can compare Vigan bibingka to tikoy than with the bibingka we have in the metro.To eat, you can reheat it in the microwave or you can also coat it with raw egg and then fry it.


Vigan Chicacorn 
This is a Vigan delicacy - salty and more delectable than the sari-sari store cornik we munch on.

Vigan Empanada
I've discussed this yummy deli with detail in this entry -  Food: The Empanada Battle. Yes, the empanadas up north are worth a separate discussion altogether!


Bagnet
This is a delicacy that is sinful to the core!!! This is basically your slab of pork which was boiled and then deep fried to the height of its crispiness.  
Apart from these delicacies, there are a number of dishes that originated in Vigan (and the whole of Ilocos) which found their way to national cuisine. There are: Pinakbet, Diningding, and the recent dish that's being appreciated by non natives: Poqui Poqui ( grilled eggplant which is minced and mixed with egg). 
Hike it up in Vigan for the weekend and you will surely end up in foodie heaven. 

Poqui-Poqui


The Ilocano People 
The Ilocano's, are a gentle people. Physically, they are often dark-skinned or moreno, have round deepset eyes and round face.

They are known to be kuripot or really stingy. I myself is a first hand witness to this - my father is the epitome of stinginess! However, this trait is not as bad as others perceive it.  Ilocanos believe that there are things in life that really matter apart from being too proud and being wasteful of one's money.

They are not a proud people. They may look simple and down to earth to the point of looking downright impoverished, but you would be surprised to learn that they actually own rolling fields and expanses of wide land.

And the owners themselves till these land themselves. The Ilocanos are real hardworkers. As long as they are capable no matter what age they may be, they will continue to work hard for their family.



In the end, stepping on the cobblestone streets of Vigan,  I felt like joining my people.
The feeling that you are a part of an entire group of people who share the same thing that you have is powerful. A homecoming of some sort,  and that felt good. And coming from this part of town, (albeit only by virtue of blood relations), makes me proud.


some photos from here, here, here

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Food: The Empanada Battle



In Ilocos, there is a strong yet hush hush battle of the best kind of empanada - the orange and thicker crust one from Batac versus the pale yellow and thinner crusted one from Vigan.  And last December, I had the opportunity to taste both! Before I give out my verdict...let me describe these two empanadas thoroughly based on my taste.






The Ilocos empanadas are not like the usual empanada we see and buy here in the metro. The chicken empanadas and others here are made of flour/bread like crust which are often baked instead of fried. The filling are a weird yet flavorful combination of papayas, cabbage or mongo sprouts, one whole egg and longganisa. Instead of comparing it to the usual empadanas, I think I could actually compare it to a fried spring roll or lumpia.


Vigan Empanada


Since my first stop was in San Vicente near Vigan, Ilocos Sur, I happened to sample the thinner, paler empanada first from the city center of Vigan. It was my second day exploring the Heritage Village - a name given to the historical Crisologo street  and various surrounding streets- a UNESCO world heritage site. Walking around the old street felt magical as my adrenaline and excitement is on an all time high. There are various souvenirs to ogle and buy.


But one thing I am interested in apart from the semi-obligatory ref magnets and keychains is to take home and sample the food of the place. After buying one too many chichacorns and Vigan longanisa, it is time to chill, hang out and sample the empanada.




There is a certain area in the town plaza called the Vigan Empanada center where many different stalls are selling the yellow empanada.The Vigan empanada has a thin crust and is yellow in color. What's inside the crust are shredded cabbage, sliced green papayas, one whole egg and Ilocos longganisa.


It was crisp, hot because it was freshly cooked. You need to douse it with sukang Iloko to be able to get the right melange of tastes right. I,m salivating right now!


Batac Empanada




En route to Pagudpud from Vigan, I made it a point to make a pit stop at Batac to try their version of empanada.



Before I took the roadtrip to Ilocandia, a lot of people have been telling me to actually try this empanada - it's Batac empanada or nothing at all! Imagine how some passionate foodies defend their choice, what more to actual people who hailed from such places. With no intention in fueling the fire...I actually stopped at Batac in  to sample these orange wonders with the intention of comparing it to the Vigan empanada I tried days before.
Papa and Mommy

My first impression, it looks a lot like the orange quail eggs sold back in Manila. You can see them everywhere. But Batac empanada was colored with natural coloring - atsuete. The dough is also thicker compared to Vigan empanada. What's interesting is that you get to choose between Sukang Iloko or Banana ketchup to go with your empanada. Hmmm.


The filling: instead of shredded cabbage, the Batac empanada uses generous amounts of mongo sprouts or togue, sliced green papaya, one whole egg and longganisa.


The verdict? 


Though Vigan empanada is thinner, I found Batac empanada tastier. It's probably because of the dough. My first impression was that Batac empanada would be a letdown but despite the thick crust I can actually taste a whole lot of MSG in it. Haha. Seriously, the serving was actually quite bigger with generous filling.


However, I hated to pair it with ketchup at first but when I did, it tasted quite better.
Vigan empanada is best enjoyed sitting down and dousing the entire thing with Sukang Iloco for a minute before diving in.
Did I actually cast my vote? Haha. For me Batac empanada is tastier. Of course my father from Vigan would say otherwise! haha. But it is better to try comparing the two when you get to Ilocandia!

To those who already did, which is the best empanada in all of Ilocandia for you?

*******
some photos sourced from here, here, and here

Monday, December 27, 2010

I love Ilocandia

I have been traveling all over with friends, and even alone. And so now I'm primed to usher my family's travel adventure for 2010! And it was soooo much fun!!!! I love the holidays and I love Ilocandia!

Unlike most travelers who make a beeline to Laoag first, our journey led us first to Vigan Ilocos Sur because my father was hailed in San Vicente, a town near Vigan.  Holidays is all about family right? What could be a perfect reason to travel with the fam than to spend the holidays with my relatives on my father's side?
 parroting Baluarte
 me in the Heritage Village in Vigan
 Papa and Mommy infront of Sta. Maria Church in Sta. Maria, Ilocos Sur
Batac Empanada

Before reaching Vigan, we made stops along the way. The most noteworthy is the Sta. Maria Church located in Sta. Maria, Ilocos Sur which is a UNESCO World Heritage Church in the Philippines - (we only have four in the Philippines). This is the third UNESCO World Heritage Church I have been to, the first one is San Agustin Church in Intramuros, Manila and the second one is the Santo Tomas Villanueva Church in Miag-Ao, Iloilo. Then we went straight to Vigan, the Heritage Village of Calle Crisologo which is also a UNESCO World Hertitage Site. (More on this later) Baluarte came in next, then a Burnayan Village.




I have been always lured by the sea ever since Magical Marinduque and over the holidays I and my family boarded our van and set off on a journey from Vigan Ilocos Sur (Papa's home town) to Pagudpud in Ilocos Norte which is 75 km far. But after traveling for about 4 hours I also have 4 words to to describe the whole journey: It's all worth it.

I got no words to say really so let the photos speak. This journey was perfect hassle free and breathtaking. So Pagudpud I christen you as the perfect beach for me as of the moment - wide beach stretches, azure waters, white sand...I know I will come back to you soon!






papa and mommy

me and cousin Lhowella

Not to mention I met Candelaria and Herman Zapp right smack behind our hotel in Pagudpud!!!! who would've thought?!  Well first things first, who are Candelaria and Herman Zapp? They are the world famous traveling couple who have been on the road for about 10 years now. They were originally from Argentina and they travelled from there to Alaska in 2007. With barely no funds, they managed to achieve the feat, and eversince they continued to travel all over the world. Candelaria even got pregnant and had babies while on the road! And now, the family of six is still traveling all over the world and as of press time they are here in the Philippines. Apparently they spent their Christmas here.

What's more unique about Cande and Herman is that they are not just travelers, but they are traveling all over the world using their vintage car!





Check out Candelaria and Herman Zapp's website here and they announced that they are indeed in the Philippines! Never thought that I would get to meet them!!!

After staying in Pagudpud, we went to Bangui bay. Located in Bangui Bay are the huge and powerful windmills that generate power for some areas in Ilocos Norte. I was amazed, they are so huuuuuge!!!!!


Heading to Ilocos Norte wouldn't be complete without making a pilgrimage at the magnificent Paoay Church! -- which is also a UNESCO World Heritage Church which means I've completed my personal journey to the four World Heritage Churches in the Philippines!


Traveling with family to one of the scenic and culturally rich destinations in the country over the holidays is one of the best experiences ever. Thankful also to spend not just a weekend, but one whole week in Ilocandia! Indeed I love Ilocandia and the holidays! What can be more perfect than that? More posts soon!!!