Spellbound in Siquijor

I conjured or even imagined many excuses to delay writing this post. Workload, laziness, more travel, root canal. etc. etc. Why? Because I don't know exactly how to begin. Looking from the outside, the trip that I made was somebody else's nightmare. But for me, it was a dream come true.

PAL flight from Manila to Dumaguete

Before stepping on the pristine, beautiful and enchanting Siquijor shores, I had no idea what is in store for me. See, I've only just dreamt about going to Dumaguete and nearby towns in Negros Oriental. San Juan, Valencia and Dumaguete are my main purpose on this trip. And maybe Apo Island. Siquijor was just a  loosely researched plan. All depending on my mood. But why oh why, did I find myself alone in a nipa hut right smack in Siquijor town in Siquijor province? Listening to strange noises rustling through the walls of my rickety abode for the night?

Simple.
I was spellbound.

Like a helpless victim with dazed eyes hypnotized by witchcraft and sorcery I found myself in the waiting area of the pier at the end of the Boulevard, waiting to board the vessel for which I shall spend the loooongest 45 minutes of my life. It was the choppiest ferry boat I have ever experienced. First fifteen minutes, I was having an internal battle with myself, and I was actually calculating if turning back is still an option.

After that, everything went by really smoothly. Like it was in a dream. And what welcomed me was this.

If it isn't spellbinding, I don't know what is.

The first thing I see in Siquijor and I've fallen in love with it already.

Siquijor Island Tour on my next post.

Seven Destinations, Seven Weekends, One Whirlwind Local Travel Adventure

I am one of those people who wish to travel in foreign and local destinations and stay there for a week, a month or even a year. Forget all the trappings of work,  and just set off on an adventure while still doing what I love to do - to write. I long for long-term travel. And who doesn't? That feeling of freedom and abandon. That spontaneity. That opportunity to live the life of my dreams. Ah. A girl can dream.  

But because I need money to fund my escapes, and because I looove my job and I don't want to lose it by resigning or being fired, I have to make a compromise. Because life is about compromises. We can't have it all. Or can we?

So to  at least satisfy my yearning to travel locally, I availed of this airline's promo which promised that I can have unlimited travel for ten grand. Impulsive me went for it! But there was a catch, heck, there is always a catch - you can only avail of the "unlimited" travel within the period of seven weeks. Since I cannot opt for long-term travel, I decided upon the next best thing to enjoy this deal - I decided that I will travel every weekends for the next seven weeks!

The grand plan:

Dumaguete – Siquijor        August 28- September 2

Kalibo                              September 3-5

Cebu                                September 11-13

Bacolod                           September 17-19

Legazpi                            September 24- 26

Davao                              October 1-3

Palawan                           October 13- 16

So this was the plan: I'd travel every weekend, even for as short as three days for seven weeks. I told myself, I will complete the itinerary. Short vacations are still vacations. Weekend travels may be short, but it's enough to feel the vibe of the destination, to sample the local food, to connect with new people. I promised myself that I would go, even when I have deadlines. I'd bring my trusty laptop so I can write, inside the hotel, or at a local cafe. There is still something exhilirating about working in a new setting.

Plus it will be a great way to fight lethargy - all tickets are already printed for the next seven weeks. All I need is a map, moolah and myself! 

So, was I able to stick with ze plan?

I traveled solo but I think TRAVEL FATIGUE tagged along. 

I was only able to travel to four destinations out of the projected seven. Sigh. Three things, flexibility, graciousness and simple gung-ho attitude can make you brush your disappointments like yesterday’s dandruff.

And I still think that the whole experience is one for the books.

Plus, despite not being able to complete my itinerary, I realized that the four-local destination glimpse to our motherland made me state this  very important thing that I have learned: Whoever says that The Philippines is inferior to another country when it comes to natural wonders and beauty is a complete fool.

Nothing can beat that one moment - when you are riding the local habal-habal ripping the coastline of a remote island, sleeping alone in a hut in no less than Siquijor Island, riding the ferry boat traversing the choppy Bohol Sea, eating buffet lunch in Mactan Island, writing/working while having breakfast in Real Coffee, or being stranded in Bicol because of typhoon Pedring- whatever you do, that moment can come unexpectedly, when you realize that you are living your dream, you are exploring and you are happily, breathlessly alive.

Up next, the first leg: My solo Dumaguete-Siquijor Adventure! 

Life Changing Cambodia

It's not just about the magnificent temples. As much as there is beauty in brilliance and in human genius, religion, spirituality and greatness, there is a painful divinity in every tragedy. Cambodia will always be etched in my heart. Greatness, will equal great disaster. Pain and death, beauty and bravery. Two extremely opposite  human experiences happened to this country. Learning about their pain, makes me want to hug every Cambodian, smile and buy bracelets at every Cambodian kid peddling their goods, lucky and happy to be alive.

may I interrupt your regular programming

This post is not travel-related, but allow me to share to you what I have been up to. I am writing for this show for ABS-CBN. (weeknights around 9-ish). The series (Nasaan Ka, Elisa?- is a franchise from Mexico and Chile -  countries that I hope to actually travel to someday. (who said this ain't travel-related, haha). Please watch the show, it's a different kind of experience to teleserye fanatics and to those with more, ehem, sophisticated tastes, the show can actually tickle your brain.

Apart from writing, I have been traveling every week, (even bringing deadlines with me). My first jaunt was in Dumaguete and Siquijor during the long weekend, and then the week after was my first time to go to Boracay. Last week was second time in Cebu. It has all been very enriching. I feel so blessed and grateful to get to know these places, and the people I encounter.

Traveling is not an escape, it is a reunion to my once-innocent and excitable, overflowing-with-passion self. And yes, I will be traveling to a lot more places soon! But first,  I need to find time to write these posts. I'm so excited to share them all with everyone.

Curiously, on twitter, people have been asking why did Elisa (played by Melissa Ricks) disappear. Did someone kidnap her? Is she dead? I answer jokingly, Elisa went backpacking alone to some obscure town that's why she went missing.  Haha.

Nah. That's what I would do.

haven't updated in a while

but rest assured my travel stories are being recorded in my travel journal. can't wait to share the stories with everyone! Keep travelling! Cheers!

Ode to Vigan

Villa Fernandina- this is what the Spaniards christened this beautiful and quaint city up north, the capital of Ilocos Sur.
An island gifted by a rich Spanish colonial past,  magical cobblestone streets,  ancestral homes and a UN World Heritage site (Heritage Village) - Vigan.

My father's parents are based in Vigan. He used to have this beautiful street as a playground.  But for a person who wants to find a greener pasture, my father in his teens, boarded a bus to Manila, studied in Manila, established his life there, met a Batanguena woman and got married in Manila.  And now, my family considers Manila as our home at present.

So yes, this trip was doubly special because it was a "coming home" of my father who hasn't been back to his hometown Vigan after a number of years. And personally, this is my coming home too since I've only been in Vigan thrice since I became an adult.

Enchanted Cobblestone Streets 

Stepping into the Vigan Heritage Village is an out of this world experience. The streets, albeit old and ancient, are full of people and alive.

In the morning, the whole street becomes a bazaar showcasing impressive Ilocano handiwork and craftsmanship in every product. Bags, handicrafts, souvenirs, can be seen here. To shoppers, there will be endless rows of goodies to be bought all in reasonable prices.

At night, the beautiful streets in the Heritage Village are illuminated by glowing lights from old-fashioned lamp posts and the soft light transforms the street into an even quainter, lovelier version of itself.

Vigan Foodtripping
For foodie travelers, Vigan is heaven! You can even create an itinerary for food tripping alone!  Yes commercial establishments like Mcdonald's and KFC abound, but along the gracefully aging streets you will find a native delicacy that you'd definitely like to sample or even take home!

Vigan Longganisa
A kind of longganisa (sausage) that has a yummy yet strong flavor, savory, sour and garlicky! The perfect breakfast meal would be Vigan longganisa, fried rice, egg and a cup of strong coffee! I brought home packs of these. And yes, this will always remind me of Vigan.

Vigan Bibingka
Compared to the "Simbang Gabi" bibingka (fluffy,soft and mild),  Vigan bibingka is more dense, and has a stickier texture. I think I can compare Vigan bibingka to tikoy than with the bibingka we have in the metro.To eat, you can reheat it in the microwave or you can also coat it with raw egg and then fry it.

Vigan Chicacorn 
This is a Vigan delicacy - salty and more delectable than the sari-sari store cornik we munch on.

Vigan Empanada
I've discussed this yummy deli with detail in this entry -  Food: The Empanada Battle. Yes, the empanadas up north are worth a separate discussion altogether!

Bagnet

This is a delicacy that is sinful to the core!!! This is basically your slab of pork which was boiled and then deep fried to the height of its crispiness.  

Apart from these delicacies, there are a number of dishes that originated in Vigan (and the whole of Ilocos) which found their way to national cuisine. There are: Pinakbet, Diningding, and the recent dish that's being appreciated by non natives: Poqui Poqui ( grilled eggplant which is minced and mixed with egg). 

Hike it up in Vigan for the weekend and you will surely end up in foodie heaven. 

Poqui-Poqui

The Ilocano People 
The Ilocano's, are a gentle people. Physically, they are often dark-skinned or moreno, have round deepset eyes and round face.

They are known to be kuripot or really stingy. I myself is a first hand witness to this - my father is the epitome of stinginess! However, this trait is not as bad as others perceive it.  Ilocanos believe that there are things in life that really matter apart from being too proud and being wasteful of one's money.

They are not a proud people. They may look simple and down to earth to the point of looking downright impoverished, but you would be surprised to learn that they actually own rolling fields and expanses of wide land.

And the owners themselves till these land themselves. The Ilocanos are real hardworkers. As long as they are capable no matter what age they may be, they will continue to work hard for their family.

In the end, stepping on the cobblestone streets of Vigan,  I felt like joining my people.
The feeling that you are a part of an entire group of people who share the same thing that you have is powerful. A homecoming of some sort,  and that felt good. And coming from this part of town, (albeit only by virtue of blood relations), makes me proud.

some photos from here, here, here

The Burrrp in Baguio

Went recently to Baguio for work. It has been years since I last went to this mountain town, and yes, big, big changes have been made. There was SM Baguio for one and Session road was not as packed as it used to be. The Chinese population seemed to balloon into big proportions-- they were everywhere. But the cold, yes, the cold, lovely weather is still there to stay. Brrr.

Since the trip was for work, I wasn't able to roam around because I was, well, working. But after being cooped up in the mansion on the cliff  working and writing and eating instant food for three days,   it was time to nourish ourselves with some of the best eats in the city of Pines.

Oh My Gulay
This is a resto located in the third floor of one of those small buildings in Session Road. I love the atmosphere - it was artsy, shabby chic, forest-y and native all in one. Upon entering, you can feast your eyes with artworks and paintings on the wall.
One caveat for my fellow carnivores  -the fare in Oh My Gulay is strictly vegetarian.
Try the puttanesca, the house salad and pear crepe they call Super Sosy.
Of course, it is a violation not to try the yummy brewed coffee! And in my opinion, drinking brewed coffee in Baguio is the life.

House Salad

Puttanesca

Pear Crepe

Cafe by The Ruins
If eating at Oh My Gulay is all about veggies (and healthy!), Cafe by the ruins has a huge selection of specialties.
They say that if Tagaytay has Sonya's Garden and Bohol has Bohol Bee farm, then Baguio has Cafe by The Ruins. Maybe because of the general feel of the place plus, Cafe by the Ruins also has specialty breads and spreads. Their camote bread (75 pesos) is a must try.  I also brought home a couple of jars of strawberry preserves (180 pesos).

Camote Bread

Since it was raining at that time, I opted to lunch on a hot soupy dish called Pinikpikan. It is a Cordillera specialty which is known for the manner on how the chicken is prepared. The native chicken is being slightly beaten so that coagulated blood may rise to the surface of the meat. Locally the manner is called "pikpik" hence the name of the dish. Well, it sounds harsh and even barbaric, but for what its worth, it tasted good. So dear poor chicken, your sacrifice and pain was worth it.

Pinikpikan

Here are some of the dishes I and my companions have tried: the Chicken with Bamboo shoots (this was good, the shoots are still crisp and the chicken, tender). I forgot the exact name of the dish though. 

Of course there was Adobo  Flakes, a Purple soup (Purple Passion was the name, I reckon), some iced tea with fancy presentation, and hot chocolate. 

Chicken with Bamboo Shoots 

Adobo Flakes

Purple Soup

Iced Tea

Chocolate

Despite the changes, Baguio is still Baguio, where you can revel at the lovely weather and the local eats.  Indeed Baguio still has its charms. Can't wait to explore more local happenings and eating places in Baguio when I return.

Eating around Bantayan and Cebu city

How to go to Kota Beach?

During the recent travel to Cebu, I was able to travel to Bantayan Island and Cebu City! And of course the fun in traveling also includes tasting the local food! Where did I satisfy my palate in Bantayan Island and Cebu city? Read below!

Bantayan Island Eats
After explorinng Kota Beach in Bantayan,  we headed inland for some refreshments! We rode the ubiquitous pedicabs to go to some happening restos in the town proper that can fill the gaping hole in our stomachs.

Marisquera O Portuguese

Dinner is the first order of the night after the loooong journey. We asked some local pedicab drivers and they pointed this little Portuguese joint. The atmosphere is very relaxed and very local but the food fare is fusion and has influences of international cuisine.

What's more is apart from dining, the resto features good ole karaoke where we sung our hearts out, sober or otherwise. 

We got no photos of the food since we were too famished to even think of capturing food in their undisturbed state. 

CouCou Restaurant
After much needed splash in the waters, we headed to have brunch in this joint. It was good and affordable! This was where I ate much-wanted seafood fare for an adorable price. Each meal costs around a hundred pesos with drinks.

Cebu City Chows
Upon leaving Bantayan Island, we headed to Cebu City (Ayala) to eat some really really craved for fastfood and coffee.

Coffee Bean Tea Leaf Ayala
Hardly a local eat, but hanging out at a coffeeshop in Cebu is another way to get and feel the local vibe of the city. I was very surprised and amazed at how commercialized and cosmopolitan Cebu City is! Hanging out here feels so much like home. Well-dressed denizens, night owls and yuppies all hanging out, working and drinking their coffee fix is what you can see here.

Larsian
After coffee, and going to Casino Filipino Cebu, we headed to a down and dirty smokey yet absolutely tasty eating expedition at Larsian. Larsian is like a big compound with lots and lots of barbecued meats and seafood. The food is good yet so so cheap! Each barbecues pork costs only 15 pesos. All in all I spent only arounmd 60 pesos including all barbecued meat I can imagine with softdrinks and rice!

puso 

Will be posting stories on some yummy Baguio City restos soon!
More travel stories, cheers!

Travel Playlist

Music soothes the soul, and makes everything relaxing especially when I'm traveling. Some travel purists say that listening to music while traveling sometimes takes away the experience of being displaced, but what the heck. I enjoy listening to music but I admit, I can survive a journey without it.
Below are some of my favorite songs, the ones I ended up listening to when I was on a ferry boat to Bantayan Island (mostly Deathcab for Cutie albums) and going up north alone.

photo from here

1. Clocks by Coldplay-
I've associated this song with the image of Peter Pan flying to Never Never land. (This was the soundtrack to that movie, I think). It conjures freedom. So whenever I go island hopping or on a bus somewhere, this song always makes the playlist!

2. Moviescript Ending by Deathcab for Cutie -
Virgin Suicides is one of my favorite movies and this is included in the OST. Loved Deathcab since 2004! Imagine your self on a boat and a camera craning towards you and the open seas, and this song playing in your ears...bliss.

3. Cinema Paradiso OST by Ennio Morricone
Cinema Paradiso is one of my favorite films. This is also my working playlist whenever I'm writing. It stimulates my all my senses!

4. Maps by Yeah Yeah Yeah's
This is one of my favorite songs. There are also quite a few memories conjured when I play this. Gotta include this in the playlist!

5. Love song by The Cure
Perfect for laidback and carefree road trips! If you want you can include all songs by The Cure, guaranteed upbeat, travel music.

6. There is a light that never goes out by The Smiths
"To die by your side is such a heavenly way to die". This is also my walking soundtrack--I remember walking around Iloilo with this song.

7. Nemo by Nightwish
IPerfect when you just want to drown in the music and the soprano voice of Tarja Turunen (the replacement vocalist is bleh)

8. Crash Into me by Dave Matthews Band
- Such a dreamy song. Loved this song for the longest time! Calming, and yes perfect for emo-trips.

9. The Dog Days are Over by Florence and the Machine
- recent favorite! Inspirational. I listen to this when I hop on the treadmill too!

10. Hummingbird Heartbeat by Katy Perry
This song is so much fun! I have Katy Perry album in my Itouch and this is my most favorite song of hers. So upbeat and cheery!

What is your travel playlist?
More Cebu entries up next!